Beginner's Guide to Plumbing

Pumping your Septic System

Tue, 27 Jun 2006 19:31:31 +0000

A typical septic system will need to be pumped every three to five years. This time frame varies depending on the size of the tank, and the amount and type of solids entering the tank. A septic tank needs to be pumped when the scum level is within 3 inches of the bottom of the outlet tee or baffle and when the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet fitting. It is not necessary to use septic tank additives for your septic tank to function properly. Doing so can cause solids to carry over to the drainfield, which will result in early soil clotting. Such organic solvents can also pollute the groundwater.

Caring for your Septic System

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There are many things you can do to avoid the costly and messy disaster that can occur with a failing septic system.

1. Practice water conservation. The more water you use, the more that the system has to dispose of. There are many different ways to reduce water usage. Use water-saving devices. Repair leaky faucets and plumbing fixtures. Take shorter showers and shallower baths. Only wash dishes and clothes when you have a full load. Reduce the volume or flow of your toilet reservoir.
2. Keep accurate records. It’s important to be informed about the size of your septic system and where it is located. If you do not have this information, check with your local health agency. It’s also important to keep record of when your system has been maintained. This information will be valuable to the next owner of your home.
3. Inspect your system annually. Every year, you should inspect the scum and sludge levels inside your tank to make sure they are not in the “early warning level” range. You should also make sure the baffles and tees are in good condition. You should also periodically check the drainfield to make sure there are no odors, wet spots, or surfacing sewage.
4. Pump out your septic tank when necessary. Routine pumping will keep you from having problems later. If you use your garbage disposal frequently, you may have to pump more often.
5. Never flush harmful materials into the septic tank. Things that do not easily decompose should not be flushed. Some examples would include grease, cooking oils, newspaper, paper towels, rags, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, and cigarettes. Other chemicals, such as solvents, oils, paints, and pesticides, should also not be flushed since they are harmful to the system and can damage the ground water. Septic tank additives are not a replacement for pumping and do not reduce the need for it.
6. Keep all runoff away from your system. Water from roofs, patios, or driveways should be diverted away from the area of your septic system. The dirt over your septic system should be slightly mounded to help water run off.
7. Protect your system from damage. Keep vehicles, heavy equipment, and livestock away from the area your septic tank is in. They could damage the drainfield or compress the soil. You should also check on the location of your tank before you plant a garden, install a pool, or construct a building.
8. Properly landscape your system. The best thing to cover your system with is grass. Concrete or other materials reduce evaporation, as well as the supply of air to the soil.
9. Never enter a septic tank. Work on the tank should be done from the outside. Poisonous gases in the tank, as well as the lack of air, could be fatal.
10. Contact your local health agency if you have problems with your system. Although some repairs can be costly, others are minor and don’t require much effort.

Early Warning Signs of System Failure

Tue, 27 Jun 2006 19:32:38 +0000

If you sense that there is a problem with your septic system, there are some early warning signs to look for that could keep you from having a major disaster on your hands. If you are experiencing any of the following signs, contact your local health agency for assistance:

• Odors, surfacing sewage, wet spots, or lush vegetation growth in the drainfield
• Plumbing or septic tank backup
• Slow draining fixtures
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system

References
http://www3.doh.wa.gov/here/materials/PDFs/24_SepTank_E04L.pdf
http://people.howstuffworks.com/sewer.htm

How a Toilet Works

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:43:05 +0000

The most important component for the function of a toilet is gravity. Water enters the toilet at its base through a supply line with a shutoff valve. The water travels up the supply line and is diverted in two directions by an inlet-valve assembly (sometimes called a ballcock). Most of the water flows into the tank, but some of goes directly into the tank via an overflow tube. In essence, as the tank fills up, so does the bowl. The toilet stops filling when the float ball reaches a certain point. When the float ball reaches that point, it puts pressure on the ballcock, which shuts off the flow of water. When the toilet is flushed, the handle trips a lever that raises a flapper covering an opening at the bottom of the tank. This opening is called the flush-valve seat. When the flapper is raised, gravity pulls the water from the tank through the hollow body of the bowl into the bowl itself. The waste is then carried down through the drain. This is a result of the cyclone effect caused by water rushing into the bowl. Right after it opens, the flapper drops back down into position and the tank begins to fill back up. Toilet parts may vary depending on the tank, but the basic operations are always the same. Some of the variations in models are as follows. Floats in older models are often made of copper, while new model floats are usually made of plastic. The mechanism that lifts the flapper is either a rod or a chain. Older ballcock assemblies are made of brass, while newer ones are plastic. And finally, instead of a float ball, some toilets have a float cup that slides up and down a tube as the water level rises and falls.

Common Symptoms of Toilet Problems

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:45:00 +0000

Here are some common symptoms of toilet problems. If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, your toilet is in need of repair.

• Water on floor around the toilet
• No effect from pressing the flush handle
• Sound of trickling water in the toilet
• The toilet tank is cold to the touch and is wet on the outside (sweating)
• It takes a long time for the tank to refill after flushing
• Flushing the toilet while the shower is running causes a drop in the water pressure or a rise in the temperature of the shower water
• Right after it's flushed, the toilet leaks between the tank and bowl.
• There is a groaning sound after flushing the toilet.
• After flushing the toilet, the water continues to run until you jiggle the handle or flush the toilet again.
• Water is slowly but constantly leaking between the tank and the bowl.
• The toilet starts refilling all by itself
• The toilet is plugged and takes more than one flush to clear.

Common Toilet Repairs

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:45:51 +0000

How to Stop a Toilet from Running
If your toilet is running, it could be for one of two reasons. Either the water is flowing into the overflow tube when the toilet runs, or there is a problem with the fill-valve. If water is leaking from the tank into the bowl, it is probably an issue with the flush-valve assembly. If the water is running into an overflow pipe, the first thing to check is the float ball. If the float ball is submerged more than halfway in the water, it needs to be replaced. The next thing to check is the guide arm. If the guide arm is binding to the side of the tank or to the overflow tube, it needs to be straightened. If both the float ball and the guide arm are functioning properly, adjust the water level by bending the guide arm or turning the adjustment screws on the fill valve. Flush the toilet and make sure that the water level is even with the fill line on the tank or overflow tube.

How to Unclog a Toilet
The first thing to try when your toilet is clogged is a plumber's helper, or a plunger. Position the plunger over the hole at the bottom of the bowl and push up and down several times. If it is a major clog, it's best to use a toilet snake or a closet auger with a padded end. Place the padded end of the auger in the toilet bowl and work it into the hole. Push the handle down and turn it to push the clog through.

How to Get Rid of Condensation on the Tank
Condensation occurs as a result of a cold tank and warm air. A simple solution is to add a tank cover. An alternative to this is to install an insulating liner inside of the tank. Kits are available from plumbing supply stores. You can also install a mixing valve. This adds a little warm water to the cold water that is entering the tank, which raises the temperature of the tank water.

How to Fix a Toilet That Does Not Flush Properly
The first thing to check is the trip lever. The lever should be set at a slight angle so that it isn't scraping the side of the tank, the overflow tube, or the intake valve. If the lever is not moving freely, bend it slightly toward the center of the tank. If the trip lever isn't the problem, check the lift wire. The lift wire needs to raise the float ball high enough that the outrushing water isn't pulling it back down prematurely. If this is the problem, bend the lift wire enough to shorten it, which will hold the float ball out of the way of rushing water. A float ball that is adjusted too low could also result in improper flushing. To correct this, bend the float arm upward. The water level should be ½ to ¾ of an inch below the top of the overflow pipe. Clogged outlet ports could also be the problem. If this is the case, scrub the ports with a wire brush to remove sediment and mineral build-up.

Replacing a Toilet

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:46:20 +0000

There comes a time when you need to stop repairing your toilet and instead opt to replace it. You can replace your toilet yourself, although it helps to have someone to assist you, as lifting the toilet will probably require two people. The materials you will need are as follows: toilet, wax seal, force-cup plunger, slip-joint pliers, adjustable wrench, hacksaw, putty knife, rubber gloves, and a rag. The first step is to get rid of all the water in the toilet. This is accomplished in four steps: turn off the water at the shutoff, flush the toilet to remove water from the tank and the bowl, use a force-cup plunger to force water down the drain line, and remove the remaining water from the tank with a sponge and a bucket. Next, you need to disconnect the supply line from the base of the tank. Pop off the trim caps at the base of the toilet to remove the old toilet. Then, loosen the nuts and bolts that connect the toilet to the floor. Gently rock the toilet back and forth until it can lift free. After you have removed the toilet, stuff a rag in the open hole to prevent sewer smells from backing up into your house. The next step is to pry up the old wax seal with a putty knife. Inspect the flange to make sure it is not cracked. If it is, contact a plumber. If the flange is okay, proceed to remove the rag from the hole and take the closet bolts out of the flange. Install a new wax seal and hook the new closet bolts into their slots on the flange. You can now attach the tank and bowl and assemble the new toilet. To do this, slide the tank bolts through the opening in the bottom of the tank. Then line up the shank of the bolts with the holes in the bowl, and drop the tank into place. Tighten a nut onto each shank bolt to secure the tank in place. Once the toilet is assembled, set it onto the flange assembly, line up the bolts with the holes in the base, and lightly press down on the toilet to form a seal with the wax ring. Secure each bolt with nuts and washers and cut off the excess bolt with a hacksaw. Pop the trim caps in place to cover the ends of the bolts, secure the new seat, and reconnect the supply line at the base of the toilet. Your new toilet is now fully installed!

References
http://www.cidnetwork.com/Maintenance-toilet-problems.htm
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/pl_toilets/article/0,2037,DIY_14192_2270876,00.html
http://www.theplumber.com/uncloggingtoilets.html
http://www.friendlyplumber.com/plumbing101/toilet_tank_repairs.html

What is a Water Softener?

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:47:00 +0000

A water softener is used to reduce the concentration of calcium and magnesium in hard water. Hard water is water that has been in contact with limestone or other sediments. This contact infuses the water with calcium and magnesium ions, which can cause two major kinds of problems. First, the metal ions react with soaps and detergents and hinder their ability to lather. This creates the familiar scum we know as "bathtub ring". Second, the calcium and magnesium can build up on pipes and restrict water flow. In boilers, the build up acts as a thermal insulator in the pipes, which reduces heating efficiency. It also causes the metal to overheat which can lead to major system failure in a pressurized unit.

There are two options for dealing with hard water. You can filter the water in the house through distillation, or you can use reverse osmosis to remove the calcium and magnesium in the water with a water softener. Filtering all the water in the house would be costly and inefficient, so a water softener is usually the best solution. Water softeners work by replacing the magnesium and calcium ions with sodium ions since sodium will not build up on pipes and does not react badly with soap. To replace the ions, all the water in the house runs through a bed of small plastic beads, or through a chemical matrix called a zeolite. The beads or zeolite are covered with sodium ions and as the water flows past, the sodium ions swap places with the calcium and magnesium ions. When the point is reached that the beads or zeolite contain nothing but magnesium and calcium, it is time to regenerate the beads or zeolite. To regenerate the beads or zeolite, they must be soaked in a stream of sodium. This is where the salt comes in. Salt is sodium chloride, so the water in the water softener mixes with salt to make a brine solution. The beads or zeolite are flushed with the brine solution and the sodium ions from the salt replace the magnesium and calcium ions. The remaining brine water and the magnesium and calcium ions are flushed through a drainpipe.

How Hard is Your Water?

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:48:19 +0000

It may be easy to tell if you are having trouble with hard water, but it's a good idea to find out exactly how hard it is. If you are serviced by a municipal water company, you can call the Superintendent of Water and ask for the test results. They will give you the results in the form of various minerals in parts per million (PPM). You can convert this number to grains per gallon (GPG) by dividing the quantity of PPM by 17.1. If your water is supplied privately, you'll have to have it tested yourself. You can call the county health department to see if they offer testing, or you can enlist an independent water-testing lab or water conditioning company. Some water softener companies will offer free testing by mail if you send them a sample, or they may send you a test strip kit to do it yourself. Testing your water is a good idea, not just for hardness, but also for safety. Depending on your water source, you should check it at least once for mineral content and once or twice a year for bacteria and nitrates. Your water utility company or the state health department should be able to recommend you to independent water testers, or you can look under "Laboratories" in the yellow pages. An affordable option would be to contact a mail-order Laboratory, such as National Testing Labs (800-458-3330), which offers a 77-item check for $137.00.

Choosing a Water Softener

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:48:46 +0000

Water softeners come in many different shapes and sizes. It's important to first inventory your water softening needs before you choose the one that is right for you. The size of a water softener is rated by the number of grains of hardness is can handle between regenerations. A small water softener handles between 12,000 and 16,000 grains. A medium water softener handles between 20,000 and 40,000 grains. A large-capacity water softener can handle 40,000 grains or more. To determine the size of water softener you need, multiply the number of people in your family by 75. If you have a family of five, then the average number of gallons you use a day is 375. Multiply this number by 10 to determine how many grains of hardness will be removed each day. In this case, the number would be 3750. Compare this number to the regeneration cycle of each unit and see how frequently regeneration will need to occur. Ideally, a unit should be able to go three days between regeneration and should be able to handle times when you have larger than normal water needs, such as when you have guests.

Once you have determined the size of water softener that you need, you need to decide what type you want to get. The first thing to consider is the controls. Find out what controls the regeneration cycle and how much water is used for recharging. There are two different methods of controlling the system. The first is timer controls. These systems operate on a clock or an electronic timer and recharge the unit at a specific time each day. The downside of this is that the time may fall short if you have unusually large water usage on any given day, or the unit could recharge before it is actually necessary, which wastes water and salt. The second type of control is DIR controls, or demand-initiated regeneration. This type control senses when the system needs to be recharged, either electronically or with a meter. This type of control system saves on water and salt and accounts for the times when you will have above average water usage. Another thing to consider is the services that the water softener company provides. Some companies will regularly change out exhausted units with charged units. If you have a large family or live in an area where the water is extremely hard, more than 10 GPG, you may want to consider a dual-tank softener. When a softener is recharging, it disconnects from the water system. With a dual-tank system, one tank is regenerating while the other is in use, so you never run out of soft water.

Troubleshooting your Water Softener

Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:49:09 +0000

If you are experiencing trouble with your water softener, there are several things you can check yourself before calling a service professional. The first thing you can check is the level of the water in the salt keeper. A high level of water could mean a problem with your water softener. Contact a service professional if the water level is too high. Another thing to check is the water softener's timer. If the timer is set incorrectly, the water softener could be regenerating at inconvenient times. When adding new salt to the system, make sure that the salt level is low. Otherwise, you will just be adding new salt on top of the old salt. The old salt won't dissolve and could clog your water softener system. Another thing to remember is that when you clean the salt keeper, you need to add three gallons of water before restarting the water softener. Taking care of your water softener and properly maintaining it could save you costly repairs later.

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_softener
http://home.howstuffworks.com/question99.htm
http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected/guides/watersoft.html
http://www.mettertswatercare.com/troubleshooting.htm

Plumbing Training

Mon, 07 Aug 2006 14:49:09 +0000

Septic Systems

Mon, 07 Aug 2006 14:52:47 +0000

Kitchen Faucets

Mon, 07 Aug 2006 14:55:45 +0000

Drain Cleaning

Mon, 07 Aug 2006 14:59:48 +0000

Beginner's Guide to Plumbing

Pumping your Septic System

Caring for your Septic System

Early Warning Signs of System Failure

How a Toilet Works

Common Symptoms of Toilet Problems

Common Toilet Repairs

Replacing a Toilet

What is a Water Softener?

How Hard is Your Water?

Choosing a Water Softener

Troubleshooting your Water Softener

Plumbing Training

Plumbing Training Overview

Types of Plumbing Training Schools

Ways to Get Funding

Applying for Plumbing Training

Septic Systems

The Sewer System

The Septic Tank

Pumping your Septic System

Caring for your Septic System

Kitchen Faucets

Kitchen Faucets--Introduction

Kitchen Faucets--Finishes and Styles

Kitchen Faucets--Additional Features

Kitchen Faucets--Installation and Repair

Drain Cleaning

Drain Cleaning Overview

Drain Cleaning Classifications

Random Drain Cleaning Solutions

Tips & Cautions