What should I know as a tourist in Peru?

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Be up-to-date on your hepatitis and tetanus shots and be prepared to take malaria pills before even thinking about visiting Machu Picchu.

Heard of the Shining Path, the Communist guerillas in Peru? They are less active than they have been, and you can live in Peru for years without having any problems with them, but do heed any government warnings. Usual places of activity for the Shining Path nowadays are Ayacucho, Huancavelica, Huanuco, Junín, and San Martín. Also, if a strike or protest occurs, stay out of the streets and public places; if you must be in them, do not loiter.

Peruvians drive better than you might think from their lack of stop signs and most traffic lights and have few accidents, so don't panic. But if you don't like hearing car horns (used to alert other drivers to their cars' presences) or want to nap on your night trip into Lima from the airport, bring earplugs.

A taxi fare is calculated by distance not by the number of people ferried. Do not let natives coax the extra soles from you by misrepresenting that (often those who want to grossly overcharge you are comparatively poor drivers, anyway—flag another taxi). Remember that bartering is an expected practice in Peruvian markets. When they see a gringo—you—most automatically double or triple the prices from what they would charge a native.

If you attend church in Peru and are a female, wear long skirt, or you'll offend some natives. If you take Communion, be aware that many churches use a common cup (wiping off the rim) and actual wine.

Heard of Montezuma's Revenge? Do not drink the water or put it in your mouth. Use bottled water, and bring your own if you can, since it will taste better, and always check to make sure the seal is intact on the bottles. Do not have salads or other foods that would have been rinsed with the local water, even from hotels.

Standard water in Peru is carbonated (agua con gas); if you want uncarbonated water, ask "¿Hay agua sin gas?" (Eye ah-gwah seen gas?), "Is there uncarbonated water?" literally "Is there water without gas?"

Also, you'll see people standing on the streets in Lima asking to exchange your money… How do you think foreigners get counterfeit money? Be wary, though those standing near official buildings are probably safe.

Don't assume food similarity from menu names. Like spicy foods? Great—do not ask for salsa. Ask for picante (peek-on-tay). Salsa is a cheese sauce flavored like a salt lick. Picante for them is what we call salsa. Cuy (coo-ee) is Peru's famous guinea pig, and civiche (see-vee-chay) is the raw fish "cooked" to mild flavor by highly acidic lime juice.

If you see mariscos, shellfish, on a menu, be aware that it often refers to very rubbery seafood. Expect things like squid, manta ray, and mini octopi with their heads cut off and interestingly textured tentacles… and don't talk to a man on the street trying to sell a manta ray. He may gut it in front of you.

And the famous Inca Kola is banana flavored.



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