Beginner's Guide to Mountain Biking

How do I choose between an entry level mountain bike and a custom bike?

Mon, 13 Mar 2006 19:40:37 +0000

Two factors play into one’s choice between an entry level and a high-end mountain bike. The first factor is economical, and the second is more philosophical in nature. On the economical side, you need to ask yourself, “For what am I planning to use this bike?” For knocking around the neighborhood, riding around campus, or occasional trail riding, the choice is simple. You want an entry level bike. These are by no means inferior machines. Their quality far surpasses a $59 bargain bike at a discount store, and any one of them will amply meet your needs. You can count on your entry level bike holding up for years to come if properly maintained. These bikes include brands such as Schwinn, Specialized, Trek, Fisher, and others. The differences among the entry level bikes made by these manufacturers are not significant. Among the several bikes that will be your size out of the entry level, choose whichever fits your budget and strikes your fancy. Furthermore, if you are planning to lock your bike up in public, it must be mentioned that a $300-400 bike is less likely to be stolen than a high-dollar professional bike.

Are you really serious about getting into mountain biking? Are you the beneficiary of a personal trust fund? Then you are confronted by the philosophical question of whether it is better to start at the top, or to work your way up. The chief reason that the high-end bikes are expensive is because of the high cost of the ultralightweight materials that make them up. A professional mountain bike may weigh five or more pounds less than its entry level counterpart.

This may not sound like much, and indeed, a beginner cyclist may never notice it, but to an experienced rider, this makes a world of difference. The advice of Mike Karberg, former owner and now part-time employee of Mesa Cycles in St. Louis, MO, is that it takes a few years of riding the same trails again and again with your entry level bike, before you are able to appreciate a better one. Provided that you are at a reasonable level of fitness, he counsels, if you ride that same trail with a bike that weighs five pounds less, you will suddenly feel like you have a motor attached to your bike. And from a sports psychology perspective, don’t forget to factor in the emotional boost that comes from a bike that takes you up and over that hill that has always thwarted your best efforts. For any musicians reading this, let me make a comparison. A musician might play for years on a student level saxophone before trading up to a much nicer one. Highly sensitive to the subtle improvements of the new instrument, the musician will be filled with deep appreciation that will add new joy to his playing.

Even if you have the resources to start with that $2,000 cycle, you may want to think twice before buying it. Only if you take the time to become a connoisseur, will you fully appreciate what you have. But if you are a long-time rider of an entry level mountain bike, beware! If you take someone’s high end bike out for a test ride, your old bike may seem like it’s made of lead from that point on. The best advice is to wait until you have the time and the resources to take it to the next level before you enter the world of custom mountain bikes.

Sources:

Mike Karberg, Mesa Cycles St. Louis, MO.

Mountain Bike Repair Overview

Mon, 13 Mar 2006 19:42:51 +0000

Repair know-how is an integral part of mountain biking. It may be extremely inconvenient, or at least not fun, to walk your bike back from a distant point on the trail because it needs repair. Some problems may require "professional attention," but others, like a flat tire, a broken chain or one that is catching or squeaking, you can learn how to fix yourself, on the trail or at home.

How to Fix a Flat Bike Tire

Mon, 13 Mar 2006 19:44:47 +0000

To fix a flat bike tire, you'll need a pump, and a patch kit that includes a tire lever, sandpaper or a scraping tool, glue, patches, and possibly talc. You also may want to carry a spare tube, in case the damage to the original tube cannot be repaired.

The first step is to remove the tire from the bike. Most modern mountain bikes have quick-release front wheels, and relatively quick-release back wheels. To remove the back wheel, shift the rear derailleur so that the chain is on the smallest gear. Turn the bike upside-down before opening the quick-release lever; then pull the wheel forward off the chain.

Go all the way around the circumference of the wheel, removing the tire casing (the outer layer of the tire) from the metal rim by squeezing the two sides of the casing to the small valley in the center of the rim. Then pull one side of the tire up, and insert the tire lever between the rim and the tire, about 1/4 inch in. Pull the lever down to expose the bead of the tire. Hold on to the bead with your thumb.

Gently run the tire lever away from your thumb and around the wheel's rim. Leave the other side of the casing in the little valley in the middle of the rim. Pull the tube out of the casing.

Next, you will need to find the leak in the tube. Pump the tube up and run your fingers along its surface until you find the spot where air is escaping. A slice in the tube longer than 1/4 inch will probably not repair well, in which case you may want to go ahead and use your spare tube. If you can't find the puncture in the tube, submerge it in water and look for bubbles.

Buff the surface of the tube around the leak with sandpaper. This removes oil and dirt, and scuffs the tube's surface, which helps the glue to bond the patch to the tube. Buff an area slightly larger than the patch you are going to use.

Spread the patch glue on the whole area that you have buffed. Patch glue should be fresh and runny when you first squeeze it out of the tube, so replace the glue in your patch kit if it gets old or too thick. Let the glue dry for a couple of minutes before you apply the patch.

The tube is ready for the patch when the adhesive is barely tacky. Test it by touching an area on the edge of where you've spread glue. Peel the blue side away from the patch and apply the patch to the tube. Do not touch the rubber side of the patch. Once it's on the tube, press and squeeze the patch until it’s well bonded to the tube. Use a little talc or powdery dirt on the exposed glue around the patch to keep the tube from sticking to the tire casing.

Now replace the tube under the casing. Make sure you have the valve stem straight in its hole. After replacing the tube, start with the valve stem at the bottom of the wheel, and push the casing back under the rim all the way around the wheel to the top.

You can pump the tire to check your repair work. Replace the wheel, and don't forget to reconnect the brake cable.

How to Use a Chain Tool

Mon, 13 Mar 2006 19:45:39 +0000

If your chain becomes damaged, replace it with a new one as soon as possible. However, it is possible to repair a broken chain temporarily, using a chain tool. Most mountain bikers recommend that you travel with a chain tool.

Your mountain bike chain has three basic components: the metal side plates (outer and inner), the "rollers" between the side plates, and the pins or rivets, which go through the rollers and hold the plates together. The rollers turn freely as the chain moves along the cogs.

If your chain breaks, you need to remove the broken link and replace it with a spare link; or, in a pinch, just reattach the two ends of the chain and ride on a shorter chain until you can replace it. Plan to break the chain in such a way that you end up with a link with outer side plates and no roller on one end, and a link with only inner side plates and a roller on the other end. To remove a broken link, place it in the chain tool. Turn the tool slowly counterclockwise until the rivet pin of the tool touches the chain rivet. Turn the tool to push the pin out of the roller. Pay close attention to the position of the pin, and stop turning when the pin is right at the edge of the roller, before it begins to move through the outer side plate. Now turn the tool the other way, and back it out of the roller. Setting the tool aside, work the chain gently from side to side, and extract the inner side plates and roller of the link.

Reroute the chain through the bike. You may need a chain retaining tool, or someone to help keep the chain in the right spot as you're routing it and repairing it. You can also use a simple "retaining clip" like a bent piece of wire to hold the ends of the chain together while you work.

Now that you have removed the broken link and routed the chain, you are ready to either insert a new link or connect the links that were on either side of the broken one. The process is the same: align the two ends so that the link with only inner side plates fits inside the link with the pin and outer side plates. Then use the chain tool to push the pin inward until it is positioned evenly between the side plates.

The easiest way to become comfortable doing this is to have someone show you, and actually practice with a chain and chain tool. You will have no trouble making a temporary repair in a bike chain once you have seen it done and practiced it yourself one or two times.

How to Lube a Mountain Bike

Mon, 13 Mar 2006 19:46:32 +0000

Cleaning and lubing your mountain bike frequently will keep it in good condition and make the parts last longer. How often you do this will depend on how often you ride, and on the kind of terrain you cover. It is a good idea to clean and relube your bike's moving parts after any particularly muddy or dusty ride. If you are out on the trail and notice squeaking, catching or grinding, you may also be able to fix it easily by applying a little lube.

When lubing your bike for maintenance, first, clean the chain, derailleurs, rear columns and chain rings with a brush. Use a chain-cleaning tool and soapy water or a degreasing solution to scrub all the links of your chain, removing dirt and sand.

When the chain is dry, it is ready to be lubed. There are three basic types of lube for mountain bikes.
• Chain wax: This is a "dry lubricant" that does not pick up much dust or sand. It will keep your chain running smoothly, but does not defend against rust.
• Thin oil: Like chain wax, thin oil does not attract as much dust, sand, or dirt as heavy oils and grease do. Thin oil does help to protect your chain against rust. However, thin oil is more prone to gumming than chain wax is, and must be replenished often.
• Grease and heavy oils: Grease and heavy oils do pick up dust, sand, and dirt, which will wear down your chain. Use this kind of lube if you plan to ride only on paved roads.

To apply lube to the chain, simply squeeze from the tube as you rotate the pedals backwards. Also apply lube to both front and rear derailleurs, wherever there are moving parts.

To work the lube around on the derailleurs and chain, get on your bike and ride around the block, shifting gears frequently. Then use a rag or paper towel to wipe off excess lubricant wherever you can see it (including the chain). It has already worked into the insides of the moving parts, so this step just cleans up the outer surfaces.

Resources:

www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/index.htm

www.store.yahoo.com/webmountainbike/usingchaintool1.html

24 Hour Mountain Biking Marathon

Fri, 17 Mar 2006 20:57:37 +0000

Twenty4 sports, the race organizer that created the 24 Hours of Adrenalin racing series across North America, is adding the World Solo 24 Hour Mountain Biking Championships to the site of the inaugural Olympic cross-country event for 2006. The World Solo 24 Hours of Adrenalin Championships will take place October 6th, 7th and 8th at the Georgia International Horse Park in Conyers, Ga., the site of mountain biking's debut as an Olympic sport in Atlanta, 2006.

With the inception of the World Solo Championships in 1999, the platform for the world’s elite endurance mountain bikers and age group athletes was created. Over the years the field has grown into an international mix of both male and female athletes ranging from 18-61 years of age.

If you're enough of a pimp to mountain bike for 24 hours nonstop, I will personally lobby for your body to be entombed in solid gold and flown around the sky by winged cherubims when you die.

Rocky Mountain Bike "Slays"

Wed, 22 Mar 2006 16:41:08 +0000

Bike manufacturer Rocky Mountain Bicycles reaffirmed itself as one of the industry's best when its "Slayer 70" series was named Mountain Biking Magazines' 2006 All-Mountain Bike of the Year.

The Slayer 70 offers the definitive riding experience with exceptional shocks and riding balance as well as being thousands of dollars cheaper than many of its competitors without sacrificing in overall build.

The Slayer was redesigned in 2006 into four models, each featuring the same frame but with different ancillary components. The new frame geometry has a lower stand over height, an extremely rigid rear linkage, and a single pivot suspension. Supporters describe the bike's performance while speeding down hills as "sticking like glue." Sticking in a good way, I guess.

Rocky Mountain Bikes, who celebrate their 25th anniversary this year, designs, tests and crafts their hand-built, high-quality bikes in Delta, British Columbia.

Cycling Footwear Overview

Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:38:08 +0000

So how important is your soul? As you would not neglect your inward soul, neither would you neglect the outward sole, the sole of your shoe that is. Like any other action sport, cycling requires its athletes to meet the demands of the sport in every way. There is nothing worse than engaging in an action sport and having to worry about how much your feet hurt. Most action sports have something unique to their footwear: mountain climbing, kayaking, skiing, snowboarding, mountain bike and road cycling. All of these sports require a unique shoe or boot to be worn. In snowboarding the riders strap their snowboard boots into bindings. The boots are comfortable, yet sturdy enough to give great ankle support and protection from the elements.

Similar to the snowboard boot, cycling footwear is an essential part of the sport. Most road bikes and mountain bikes have what are called ‘clipless’ pedals. These pedals require the shoes to have special cleats on the bottom of the shoe in order for the shoe to attach to the show without the use of toe-clips, which can be extremely dangerous. These pedals and shoes can lead people into thinking that riding clipped in is not safe. However, the opposite is true. By using these specialized shoes and pedals the rider is in more control of the overall speed and direction of the bike. Automatically people worry about how to escape the pedals before falling over. There is no need for pause, for these shoes have been specifically geared for quick and easy entry and exit.

The clip-in cleat bearing shoe may be the most popular in cycling, however there is a shoe that is different that is used in other types of cycling. We would be remised if we did not briefly discuss the current trends in trial, BMX, and mountain biking. The genres of cycling have morphed into new and trendy cycling sports. In BMX cycling, the name of the game is tricks. Aside from BMX racing the majority of the sport takes place in bike parks and along the urban street. Therefore the cleats found on road cycling and mountain biking riders will not stand up to the abuse. The riders are constantly pulling ‘airs’ and other aerial maneuvers that require the rider to have complete mobility on the pedals.

Trials riding, which is a hybrid sport between mountain biking and BMX, uses much of the same trick techniques of BMX with a rigid mountain bike frame. In addition to these genres, downhill mountain biking and freeride mountain biking demand similar techniques from their riders. The ‘on again – off again’ style of riding, with serious aerial maneuvers demand that these cycling sport have a shoe that will be protective, comfortable and durable. This is what Sidi has to say about the importance or your riding shoes sole:

The sole is more than the shoe’s foundation; it anchors your pedal stroke. It must be rigid for power transfer, yet flexible for comfort on long rides. It must have just the right shape, supporting the whole foot with a position that encourages perfectly smooth circles, just like our Millennium II sole. The sole is key, and nobody is more experienced in the science of sole than Sidi.

There are different kinds of cycling and just as many types of cycling shoes. The sport of cycling has branched out in recent years and become multifaceted, requiring many different styles of shoes. Depending upon your specific genre of cycling you could be wearing anything from Vans to Sidi’s.

Price Point

Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:39:43 +0000

So you are interested in buying a pair of cycling shoes. Here are a few shoes and their prices from the top manufacturers:

PricePoint.com is a leading web portal for mountain bike equipment as well as various road cycling accessories. Here are some road cycling shoes and prices:

Road Shoe (With pedals)

· Adidas Vuelento w/pedals - $119.98

· Diadora Ergo Road Shoes w/ Look A-5.1 pedals - $259.98

· Pearl Izumi Flow w/ pedals - $239.98

· Sette Elite Carbon w/ pedals - $124.98

· Shimano R215 w/ Time RXS Carbon Pedals - $339.98

· Sidi Genius 5 Road Shoes w/ Wellgo MG-8 Pedals - $229.98

Mountain Bike Shoes

· 2005 Adidas Durango - $79.98

· 2005 Adidas AdiStar XC Race Shoes – 149.98

· Pearl Izumi Flow Mtn. Shoe - $129.98

· 661 Expert MTB Shoes - $34.98

· Sette Epic Shoes - $89.98

· Sidi Dominator 5 w/ Time Atac Alum Pedals - $229.98

Launch Freeride / Downhill Shoe

· Sette Rival Shoes w/ Wellgo WAM-D10 Pedal - $74.98

· Oakley Radar Lock w/ Wellgo WAM B25 Pedals

· 2004 661 Launch w/ Sunringle ZuZu’s Pedals - $79.98

· Five.Ten High Impact Shoes - $84.98

· Five.Ten Impact Shoes - $74.98

· 2006 661 Launch Shoes - $79.98

When should I switch to using clipless pedals?

Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:40:34 +0000

This is a good question. No doubt if you have been thinking about switching then you have been consistently becoming less enamored with pedals with toe-clips. There are some riders who become quite proficient with toe-clips. However, many times riders never make the change, not because of their riding proficiency with toe-clips, but because of fear. This is unfortunate because clipless pedals offer a rider so much stability and power.

If you have been wondering when to make the switch there is no time like the present. There really is no ‘perfect time’ to make the switch. You just need to do and fall a few times; then it is smooth sailing. Speaking from personal experience, I made the switch after training for a Century Ride in Santa Fe, New Mexico. All of my training was done on a fully rigid mountain bike frame with toe-clips. For the actual race, which we were doing for the Leukemia Society, I used clipless pedals for the first time. After the Century ride my brother-in-law and I mountain biked for a week in the four corners area (Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado). So my first full week with clipless pedals I spent riding some of the most epic trails in the country. It did take me a couple of rides to get used to the feeling, but by mid-week I wasn’t even thinking about my pedals.

Final Thoughts

Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:41:05 +0000

Cycling footwear is one of the main ingredients to a healthy riding experience. If you are just bumming down the boardwalk on your cruiser or around the development, then you are probably safe with just about anything. However, if you are delving into the more serious side of the cycling sport, then you will need to invest in some solid footwear.

Cross Country mountain biking, cyclocross and road cycling are similar in that everything is built for efficiency and speed. From the frame weight to the shoe design, these two sports demand riders to use clipless pedals and shoes with toe-cleats. On the flipside, downhill racing, freeriding, BMX and trials riding demand the rider have extreme versatility and maneuverability. These riders use shoes similar to skateboarders. The shoes are comfortable, durable, and protective.

Shoes may seem like an after-thought to some people, but the reality is they are important for safety, efficiency, and power. Depending on your intentions, shoes will play a major role in your growth in the sport of cycling. Be sure to inquire at your local bike shop about pedal and shoe options for your bike. Most local bike shops will be happy to sell you the right shoe for the right bike.

Mountain Bike Repair

Wed, 02 Aug 2006 17:58:25 +0000

Cycling Footwear

Wed, 02 Aug 2006 18:05:49 +0000

Car Bike Racks

Wed, 02 Aug 2006 18:10:14 +0000

Essential Bike Riding Skills

Wed, 02 Aug 2006 18:11:24 +0000

Beginner's Guide to Mountain Biking

How do I choose between an entry level mountain bike and a custom bike?

Mountain Bike Repair Overview

How to Fix a Flat Bike Tire

How to Use a Chain Tool

How to Lube a Mountain Bike

24 Hour Mountain Biking Marathon

Rocky Mountain Bike "Slays"

Cycling Footwear Overview

Price Point

When should I switch to using clipless pedals?

Final Thoughts

Mountain Bike Repair

Mountain Bike Repair Overview

How to Fix a Flat Bike Tire

How to Use a Chain Tool

How to Lube a Mountain Bike

Cycling Footwear

Cycling Footwear Overview

Price Point

When should I switch to using clipless pedals?

Final Thoughts

Car Bike Racks

Car Bike Racks Overview

Top Racks

Rear Carriers

What is the cost?

Essential Bike Riding Skills

Essential Bike Riding Skills Overview

Wheelie Up & Over

Riding Flexed

Final Thoughts