• Nasal and/or sinus congestion
• Asthma attacks in individuals who suffer from asthma.
• Skin rash
• Eye irritation
• Hay fever type symptoms
• Sneezing
• Wheezing/difficulty breathing
• Coughing or sore throat
• Upper respiratory infections

• Using your nose to locate a moldy, musty or earthy smell. If you locate a smell that is an indication of a mold problem.
• Look for signs of mold growth. Mold can appear cottony, leathery, velvety, or granular. It can also be several different colors such as black, white, gray, or yellow. To the naked eye mold can look to be a discoloration, staining, or even fuzzy type growths on the surface of materials such as walls, carpeting, concrete, or wood. It can appear on structural parts of the house or furniture.
• Investigate for water leaks, water damage, or areas of excess moisture. Look for areas of condensation, standing water, or water stains. All of these can show up on ceilings, walls, carpeting, woodwork, or any other building material.
• Investigate under and behind things as well such as under carpet and the carpet pad, under vinyl flooring, behind wallpaper, under and behind furniture and stored items, and under and behind sink cabinets.

• Find and Fix the Moisture Issue: Since mold is caused by mold spores growing on wet surfaces the area in which is causing the moisture must first be found and fixed to eliminate any future mold problems. Areas that are commonly causes for mold growth include: areas of the home that were involved in flooding, humidifiers, roof leaks, plumbing leaks, overflow from toilets and sinks, firewood that is stored inside, house plants, and poor ventilation of combustion appliances. Surfaces in the home should be kept as dry as possible and can be kept that way by maintaining humidity. Purchase a device that measures relative humidity in a home to aide in this.
• Dry All Wet Materials: Dry all items that are wet and for severe moisture place fans or dehumidifiers toward the moisture and move all items off floors and away from walls.
• Get Rid of Contaminated Items: Any item that has absorbed water or ones that have visible mold growing on them should be removed and disposed of by being bagged up and thrown away. Common contaminated items include porous materials like sheetrock, carpet or carpet pad, insulation, plaster, ceiling tiles, wood products, and paper products. Non porous materials can be kept as long as they are cleaned properly and kept dry.
• Protect Yourself and Others: There are certain steps that should be taken in the removal and clean-up of mold to avoid the spread of the mold. They include: place all moldy items in tightly sealed plastic bags before carrying them outside the exposed area, hang a thick plastic sheet to separate the exposed area from the other areas of the home, take off clothing in the exposed area and place in a plastic bag and wash them separately from other laundry, and damp clean the entire exposed area to ensure any dust particles that have settled are cleaned.
• Clean: Surface cleaning on exposed non porous things like hard plastic, concrete, glass, solid wood, and metal can be done. The cleaning has to remove and capture all mold contamination because spores and mold left in place can cause health issues even after the removal and clean up. Proper cleaning steps are: using a stiff brush, hot water, and a non ammonia soap or commercial cleaner to scrub all contaminated surfaces, remove all excess cleaning moisture with a mop, sponge, or a wet/dry vacuum, and then rinse area with clean water and remove excess rinse water in the same way.
• Disinfect: Disinfectant can be used after all other removal and clean-up steps have been taken to kill any tiny particles of mold that may have been missed. Mix ¼ to ½ cup of bleach per every gallon of water and apply to all surfaces that need to be disinfected. Any excess water should be removed by a mop, sponge, or a wet/dry vacuum. Do Not Rinse the area. Individuals should be careful when handling bleach and handle it only in ventilated areas, protect eyes and hands when using it, and NEVER mix it with ammonia. Bleach can damage some materials so a small test spot should be done before cleaning entire area.
• Stay Alert: Even after the removal and clean-up of mold it is important to continue looking for sings the problem has returned. By looking for signs of moisture and paying particular attention to areas of previous growth future mold problems can be found quickly. If mold does return it could be a sign that all material even non porous should be removed.

Toxic mold is a type of mold that produces hazardous byproducts, called mycotoxins. While individuals with asthma and other respiratory problems may have reactions to many types of mold, it's thought that mycotoxins are more likely to trigger health problems in even healthy individuals. These toxins are believed to be linked to memory loss and to severe lung problems in infants and the elderly.

Floating particles of mold are invisible to the naked eye, so it's impossible to see where they might have landed until they begin to grow. Loose mold particles that accumulate on items within a house are easily inhaled and can be a constant irritation to the people and pets that live there.

The toxic mold we hear most about is Stachybotrys chartarum, a slimy, greenish-black mold that grows on moisture-laden materials that contain cellulose, such as wood, paper, drywall, and other similar products. It does not grow on tile or cement.

Even if the mold in your home is not toxic mold, it can still be a problem, because any mold growing on organic materials will in time destroy them and too much mold of any type smells bad and degrades air quality.

Molds are ubiquitous in nature, and mold spores are a common component of household dust. The term toxic mold is sometimes used to refer to mold related indoor air quality problems.

Exposure to significant quantities of mold spores can cause toxic or allergic reactions. Under proper growing conditions, some species of molds may generate molecular compounds called mycotoxins. In large quantities or with chronic exposure, mycotoxins can be toxic to humans or animals.

Since common building materials are capable of sustaining mold growth and mold spores are ubiquitous, mold growth in an indoor environment is typically related to an indoor water or moisture problem. Leaky roofs, building maintenance problems, or indoor plumbing problems can lead to mold growth inside homes, schools, or office buildings. Another common source of mold growth is flooding.

In the 1970s, building construction techniques changed in response to the energy crises. As a result, homes and buildings became more airtight. Also, cheaper materials such as drywall came into common use. This combination of increased moisture and suitable substrates contributed to increased mold growth inside buildings.

The health effects of mycotoxin exposure are different from allergic reactions to mold spores. Toxic effects can include flu-like symptoms, respiratory problems, headaches, cognitive problems, and skin irritation.

Another health threat from mold exposure is systemic fungal infection. Immunocompromised individuals exposed to high levels of mold, or possibly individuals with chronic exposure paired with mycotoxic exposure may become infected. Sinuses and digestic tract infections are most common. Lung and skin infections are also possible.

Systemic fungal infection can be a serious health problem. Alcohol and mycotoxin production may result from the fungal growth, leading to myriad symptoms. Sudden food allergies and digestive problems can mislead diagnosis. Treatment can be long term.

Systemic infection may be of the environmental mold itself, or by other common food related molds consumed under a weakened immune system. A weakened immune system may also result in other opportunistic infections, such as a bacterial infection.

Environmental illnesses can be difficult for healthcare practitioners to diagnose. Those who are living in houses contaminated by the mold may not be able to smell the mildewy odor, and may be unaware that the problem exists.

Make sure the room is well ventilated before you begin. If the mold covers a small surface are it isn't too hard to clean it with detergent and water. Allow the space to dry, and then apply a solution of ½ cup bleach per gallon of water to help kill the remaining spores. There are products available that are specifically designed for mold. The Centers for Disease Control offers many tips for mold cleanup. Remember that the mold will very likely return unless you eliminate the underlying problems that caused it.

Significant mold growth may require a professional cleanup service and removal of affected building materials. A conservative strategy is to discard any building materials saturated by the water intrusion or having visible mold growth.

Molds can be found wherever there is moisture, oxygen, and something to feed on. In the fall, they grow on rotting logs and fallen leaves, especially in moist, shady areas. In gardens, they can be found in compost piles and on certain grasses and weeds. Molds grow in our homes in moist warm areas like damp basements, closets, and bathrooms, even after the moisture has dried up. Also, molds can grow in places where fresh food is stored, refrigerator drip trays, houseplants, humidifiers, garbage pails, mattresses, upholstered furniture, or foam rubber pillows. The worst place that molds can grow, however, is inside wall cavities and flooring of our homes, wherever there may be cellulose materials they can feed on, such as wood, ceiling tiles, or plasterboard, even if they are not visible, and they have sustained water damage at one time or another. This is very common if there has been a plumbing leak or an inadequate roof.

You can help reduce mold growth by installing a dehumidifier in chronically moist rooms. You shouldn't carpet rooms that stay damp and insulate pipes and other cold surfaces to discourage condensation. By installing storm windows it will help eliminate condensation on glass. If you cover your crawlspace dirt area with plastic and ensure that the area is well ventilated.

The molds that produce airborne toxins can cause serious symptoms, such as breathing difficulties, memory and hearing loss, dizziness, flu like symptoms and acid reflux. Common ailments from toxigenic mold, including allergies and excessive bruising, usually can be treated and reduced after people leave their contaminated environment. Often medication, diet, and other treatment protocols are necessary. But other health problems may remain permanently, such as brain damage and weakened immune systems. Eyesight, memory, coordination and balance, and hearing are generally the most common residual effects that often do not improve after treatment in most cases.

• Sinking slabs: This is perhaps the part that can really create havoc to your home, especially because it forces your house to drop down and could cause the support beams to collapse, thereby forcing the house to implode. So it is very important to know what causes the slabs to sink.
• Slab failure: If you notice your floors are bulging, the walls are cracking, and your doors are not closing all the way, could be signs your slabs are failing to hold up. Foundation distress can result in many building falling down. But in some cases, if the foundation gives in, only one side of the house will bulge and cave in. What a disaster that would be.
• Sunken concrete repair: If you are facing slabs that are sinking or failing in some way, you will need to do repairs on your concrete slabs so they won't cause or do anymore damage. Knowing what types of repairs can work on sunken or damaged concrete will save yourself a lot of time and your home.
• Choosing the right type of repair: Knowing you have to repair your slabs and concrete is one hassle you need to worry over, you don't need to worry about what type of repair is best. However, not all repair types will do the job you need for it to do. So you must be sure your repair job fits the damage that exists.

• Observe the structure: When you look at the structure of the foundation, see if you can pinpoint the exact problem. It may be a crack in the wall.
• Recognize the structure: If you look at the foundation, see if you can determine what the material is made from. It could be concrete with some kind of primer painted on it to protect the concrete.
• Movement: Look at the concrete. Does it look like it is separating somehow? Are there gaps where there were no gaps before?
• Missing ingredients: Look at the slab of concrete and see if perhaps there could be something missing that could have prevented the damage in the first place. For example, did the builder forget to put primer or some type of concrete protector on the concrete?

This is just for starters. You need to do a thorough inspection in order for you to find the source of the problem so you can take corrective action.

• Soils: The soil around the foundation may be too moist or weak. If the sand is too loose it can cause the slab to weaken and sink or move slightly. Also check in the area around the foundation for sink holes, or any kind of hint that the ground was not solid but was planted there only a short time ago.
• Surrounding land: If you look at the surrounding land around your house, you may find some weakness close to where the foundation is located. Perhaps the area was originally a swamp land and was just filled in. This can cause the sand to shift and therefore weaken the area where the concrete was placed. You may even see root damage along trees. This shows a continuous flow of water went across the land at one point. If this is so, perhaps either the area was a swamp land, or a little brook went through there at one time and was stopped up to build homes on it. All these factors can cause the foundation around the house to weaken and shift the concrete around.
• Poor drainage: Another cause of foundation problems can be poor drainage. If the water that accumulates after a rainstorm or when using sprinkler does not have anyway of draining off, the water could become stagnate and eventually seep into the soil, causing the soil to become wet and soggy. If the soil stays wet and the temperature drops pretty far at night, that wet soil can harden and put pressure against the concrete, eventually forcing it to give in and crack or shift.

• Slabjacking: This is a procedure where the faulty pavement is raised or stabilized. Instead of replacing the concrete, cement slurry is pumped under the concrete. When this is done it lifts the sunken or even uneven concrete to the position it should be. This serves two purposes. It lifts the concrete so it is repositioned appropriately and it fills in any gaps in the concrete and soil so as to eliminate any type of water problems that may have occurred previously.
• Piering (hydraulic jacking): This is where steel pipe pilings are driven into the concrete to correct foundation problems. The steel piers are driven to rock or some suitable soil and are connected to the foundation by way of a metal head assembly. Then hydraulic jacks are attached to the steel piers and work to raise the foundation up to where it was originally. Once the foundation has been repositioned, piles are bolted or welded to wall brackets that are bolted into the cement.

Repairing sunken concrete is the most common type of foundation repair that is required. This is because fill dirt is usually placed along side the house after the foundation has been completed. This helps fill the gap that may have taken place while the foundation was laid. Unfortunately, the builder never takes the time to compact the dirt. So it stays loose. When this happens the soil sinks. The foundation being in the soil also sinks. To avoid this problem just use granular fill that includes sand and gravel mix. Then compact it with a hand held vibratory compactor.