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Beta

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First of all, what is it? "Beta" is rock climbing jargon for advice and information. The term apparently came into use when climbers started videotaping themselves -- on Betamax recorders -- in order to analyze and improve their climbing. If you want to train for a certain climb, one of the first things you need to do is to get information. (This article assumes that you have already attained the level of instruction in rock climbing from an expert instructor that you will need for your climb; if not, refer to the "Rock Climbing Overview" for information on how to get started by finding a class or an expert guide.)

Find out the level of difficulty of the climb you have in mind, and how this compares to other climbs you've done. Although the Yosemite decimal system is fairly consistent, modern routes tend to have somewhat easier ratings than older ones, so expect a 5.9 that was charted and rated several decades ago to be more challenging than a more recent one. Research your route online, and if possible, talk to someone who has already done it. Here are some good questions to keep in mind as you're researching your route:

• How does the difficulty of this climb compare to climbs my climbing partner and I have already done?
• What weather conditions might affect the climb?
• How long will this take?
• Does this climb require any special equipment?
• How are we going to get down? (This is an especially good questions ask yourself and others!)
• If the climb is in a popular area, is there a time of the week when it might be somewhat less busy?
• Are there any other tips or tricks for this ascent?

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