The List

Helmet – Helmets are important for obvious reasons. Whenever climbing there is always the risk of falling or slipping from a hold and slamming against the rock face or ground. If you are on the ground belaying a friend you are at serious risk of head injury, because the chances of something falling and smacking your head is over 90%. Some experts say even if you’re not beneath climbers belaying but are on the mountain or trekking a route to a summit, there is serious risk of head injury. Most climbers simply perceive that they are not at risk. Just remember, rocks are harder than your head. Protect your noggin! Cost? $75.

 

Harness – A seat harness is probably the second most important piece of equipment. Made of a padded waist belt and two leg loops, the seat harness is worlds apart from its predecessor—the ole rope-around-the-waist harness. No doubt we are all thankful that we don’t have to worry about rope burn that much anymore. When buying a seat harness, the main thing to consider is comfort. The better the harness is made the more comfortable it will be. Look for the independent belay loop. This loop connects the front of the waist belt and the leg loops for easy carabiners attachment. Cost? Under $100.

 

Shoes – Remember, you will be in this pair of shoes for hours—sometimes days. It is not necessary to purchase a specialized climbing shoe right off the bat. For beginners, a solid hiking or approach shoe will do just fine. Some popular brands to consider are Montrail (excellent feel, technical shoe), Merrell (super comfort, great soles), and Asolo (firm, rigid, technical, great fit). Once you get into more serious climbing excursions you will want to get into a specialized climbing shoe. These shoes are form fitting and make climbing more fun. If you have never worn climbing shoes be prepared for some tired feet, as these shoes allow your feet to use every bit of muscle they have. You can pick up a good pair of climbing shoes for around $100 - $150. Hikers and approach shoes will run about $90 - $120.

 

Carabiners – The biner is the climber’s staple piece of equipment. Biners play a central role in the climbing safety system and can be opened and closed at will. Biners can also be used to carry extra safety gear for your climb. There are two types of biners used—locking and non-locking. Locking biners are specifically important because they allow you to belay with confidence, as the belay device is locked on to your belt harness allow you to tether the rope through with safety and confidence. Starter kits include at least four locking biners ($9 a piece) and 20 non-locking biners (about $20).

 

Rope – To say climbing rope is important is an understatement. Whether you are working with a belay or lead climbing, you need rope. Rope can get expensive so take your time when making the purchase. Ask questions, compare prices and ask more questions before you take the plunge (no pun intended).

 

Climbing rope has certain distinctions from other types of rope. Kernmantle construction: a soft and supple nylon sheath, usually multi-colored, protects the real “working part—the braided core; kernmantle rope comes in two types, dynamic and static, but only dynamic ropes are used in climbing. A dynamic kernmantle rope allows for stretching, which reduces the impact for the rope and the climber.

 

The standard length for climbing rope is 165 feet. Most climbing routes are set up using this standard length. If you opt for a shorter rope you are opting for irrelevance. On the flipside if you purchase a longer rope you will have more than you need for most standard climbing applications.

 

Another aspect of the climbing rope you need to pay careful attention to is the diameter. Most climbers use an 11 mm diameter rope. The wear resistance for these ropes is good and will be suitable for most climbers. You can go lighter but it is not recommended due to risk and rope-wear.

 

If you are going to do more ice climbing you may want to invest in a dry coated rope. The dry coating keeps the rope from absorbing moisture from ice and other elements. You don’t want your rope to absorb water or freeze because it would make the rope heavier and much more difficult to use. Dry coated ropes are more expensive and should be used only when you begin to tackle frozen waterfalls. A non-dry rope is the standard for most climbers.

 

Believe it or not, color is something to consider when purchasing a rope. Climbers often need to locate the center of the rope. This has been made simpler now that ropes are being made with a sheath that is bi-colored; half the rope is green, the other half yellow.  This will allow climbers to estimate how much rope is unused more accurately. 

 

Most ropes sold by gear stores are going to strong enough to catch you if you fall. However, it is important to check and see if the rope has bee certified by the UIAA (oversees climbing equipment), just to be on the safe side. Remember: 165 feet long, 11mm in diameter are your basics for a good climbing rope, after that it is just bells and whistles. You can buy a rope like this for around $150.