We'd been trekking for a week, but every night at the teahouse the news from below, in Katmandu, was the same: more curfews, more protests. Nepal was in the midst of a huge political change—the unpopular King Gyanendra had dissolved the Parliament in 2005 and was now battling not only Maoist insurgents but a seven-party alliance and hundreds of thousands of citizens protesting his seizure of power. Like it or not, we were part of the mix: tourism is a glue keeping the country’s tenuous economy together. With an estimated per capita GDP of $1,400 a year, Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world, and foreign visitors are a significant source of funds. They needed us, and you could say, we were just doing our part.